AT Approach to BMT Start

Spent the day with my buddy Patrick on the AT approach trail.  A plan is slowly developing in my mind about seeing more of the AT and the Benton Mackaye trail.  Ive only been on a few short sections of these trail systems, maybe 50 miles total.  Each part has been beautiful and challenging.  High adventure.  The best part being I’m not bushwhacking nor getting cut up by briars.  Another aspect of these trails that I’ve enjoyed are the people I’ve met and their stories. 

The Route

 The route starts near the Amicalola Lodge in the lower left corner.  No we didn’t do the stairs up Amicalola Falls.  Been there done that.  As another buddy of mine once said at the top of the stairs: “what?, we can drive up here?!” We took the AT approach trail to Springer Mtn, the official start of the AT and then on to the start of the BMT.  We returned on that same trail and took the Len Foote trail back to the lodge stopping at the Hike Inn along the way.  The route was about 17miles with about 4k in gain.

Springer Mtn at AT Start

View from top of Springer Mtn

We noticed that all the trees at the top of Springer Mtn were covered in ice.


Start of BMT is just a bit further down from top of Springer Mtn

The trail getting to Springer Mtn trended upward so the return was a blast being mostly down hill.  Not all down hill. Mostly ;).  The trail is technical with rocks and roots so you have to pick your feet up to avoid having a bad day. On the return we stopped at the Len Foote Hike Inn to check it out.  We ended up having a hot chocolate and enjoying some time chatting on the porch sitting in the sun.  I think my family would enjoy this place.  I saw several families hiking in with plans to spend a few nights.  A prevailing theme at the Inn is no electronics.  One family I spoke with mentioned their visit was going to be a much needed tech detox.  I can relate.

Len Foote Hike Inn

From the Inn back to the lodge is about 4 miles.  My legs were quite happy with sitting in the sun and took a few minutes to accept the task at hand.  On the way back there were several nice overlooks.  We could see Stone Mtn and ATL faintly in the distance.

A nice spot to hang out.  I ended up hanging out here for a while talking to a few families hiking into the Inn.

Overlook

Back at the Start 

I think we finished in about 7 hours.  We took a lot of leisure time at Springer, the Inn, and the overlooks.  We had a beer at the Lodge and called it a day.  

Quest for Jacks River Falls

I have wanted to see Jacks River Falls for 10 years or more.  I’ve tried to plan trips to hike in from shorter and easier routes but it has never worked out.  As part of my training for a “race“ in 2020 I came up with the idea of running in the Cohuttas.  I’d be like Killian Jornet running high mountain ridges.  The key differences being that he was at altitude and actually running.  I did some planning and picked what I thought would fit well with my training level and desire for some adventure.  I’d pack the fly rod,  explore the river, find the falls, and enjoy the mountains.

The Route

The route starts at Three Forks trailhead (bottom center of pic above) and follows clockwise East Cowpen, Hickory Ridge, Jacks River, and back on Rough Ridge.  

I’m no stranger to Three Forks.  I’ve passed it numerous times by bike or car and always wanted to explore it.  To get there id head into the Cohuttas via Gates Chapel Rd and FS road 64.  This passes Bear Creek and sections of the Pinhoti.  

From Gates Chapel Rd

Waterfall just below Bear Creek overlook.  Can’t remember the name.

Bear Creek Overlook

Mountain Town Overlook 

Trail Conditions

The trails were at times faint and hard to identify with all the fallen leaves.  There is a significant amount of deadfall and briar overgrowth.  It was slow going and I had to route find often.  There are also beautiful sections of high canopy, rugged terrain, runnable sections and some stunning views. 

Deadfall

This area of the Cohuttas was on fire a few years ago and scars of the fire can be seen throughout the first half of the route.  There are many dead and fallen pine trees that may be due to pine beetles and/or stress of the fire.  I couldn’t tell for sure.  There were several areas of the forest in transition from old to new.  Large areas of once tall pines are now wide open with broken and blown down overlapping deadfall.  Green seedlings about two to three feet tall are coming up now and will restore the area in the next 10-15 years.  

Scars of the fire

Scat and scrapings

Scat here scat there scat everywhere.  I think I can recognize coyote scat pretty well and saw it everywhere.  There were a few scat that I could not identify.  My only guesses are bear or pig but I’m not sure.  

Um what made that?  

And what made that?

The entire route had pig scrapes, usually on slopes.  Lots of wild boar in this area.

Panther Creek Trail

A few years ago I did a hike into the Conasauga River and explored Panther Creek with my dog Abby.  We had to turn around because it was too rugged for her to follow me.  I remember being on all fours traversing large boulders and being face to face with what I think was a big pile of bear scat.  The area made me tense and I felt like prey.  We got the hell out of there.  If we had kept going we would have made it to East Cowpens.

Top of Panther Creek trail.

Campsites

There are several campsites along East cowpen and hickory ridge.  Maybe a future trip we can camp out and have more time to fish the river.

Green Thingies

I don’t know what these are but I hope to find out.  There are several areas with lush green ground covering plant life.

Reaching the River

I reached the river about an hour behind schedule.  The trail seemed to just stop at the waters edge.  I looked for the bridge or log or series of rocks that would take me across the river. There are no such crossings.  I never considered I would have to wade across the river.  Nor did I consider I would have to do it multiple times.  It was painfully cold and slippery.  I came close to falling in a few times.  How did I not think of this?

First river crossing

Once across the river I made my way to the falls.  I was blown away with the rugged magnificence of the rock structure.  It has multiple levels and deep pools. I climbed out to a rock outcropping to get a picture of the entire falls.

Entire Falls

Upper level

Fly Fishing

Part of my plan was to spend some time fly fishing. How cool would it be to hike in see the falls catch a fish and hike out.  What a cool story that would be.  Yeah, I cannot tell that story.  I did fish though.  Near where I crossed the river there was some top water activity so I checked it out.  Turned out to be a massive rainbow.  Maybe 24in.  It was huge, larger than my gear could handle.  I didn’t have a lot of time but I was certainly going to try.  I spent about 30 mins trying to entice a bite but it never happened.  I watched as he roamed up and down the river.  I’d love to go back and spend more time.  Maybe when it’s warmer??

Big fish in here!

Finding the Way out

Finding the way out wasn’t easy.  I had an idea of the direction but it wasn’t obvious.  I ended up having to cross the river two more times and did a lot of route finding before I was sure I was on the right trail.  Maybe I’ll bring waders next time. 

Yes I want the Rough Ridge Trail!

The trail out was steep and darkness was approaching. I was more than an hour behind schedule and my pace was initially about 30mins a mile.  I had 8 miles to go. The math was against me and I knew I’d be using the headlamp.  Luckily my pace increased as the steepness decreased and the trail opened up.  

Darkness approaches

I made it back to the trailhead about an hour after dark happy to be done.  I love the area and I’ll be back.