BMT Swinging Bridge to Shallowford Bridge

Feb 22 2020

Epic day for 24ish miles on the BMT from Swinging Bridge to Shallowford Bridge.  

I think this is Tipton mountain, or the bump just before it, as you travel from Morganton to Wilscot Gap on hwy 60.  I wasn’t expecting there to be any snow and wondered what the starting temp was going to be.

The answer is 20.  20 degrees with zero wind and a clear sky isn’t that bad.  I had prepared for frigid temps with two layers on top, running pants, warm gloves, a balaclava, and a beanie.  A puffy was a game time decision and I’m glad I left it in the truck. In less than a mile on trail it felt like a day at the beach (a cold day).  I dropped the top layer, gloves, balaclava, beanie and was still breaking a sweat. The pants came off soon after that.  For the rest of the day I had a single layer, buff and light gloves and a backpack full of clothes I didn’t need.  That combination worked perfectly.

The first climb of the route on Toonowee Mtn had a light dusting of snow on the shaded side of the ridge.

I crossed hwy 60 at mile 4 and refilled my water from the small cache I placed earlier.  I made my way towards Wallalah Mtn passing several runners that were out training for the Georgia Death Race (GDR).  The trail switched back and forth gaining ground on the summit and allowing a nice look back at Toonowee Mtn.

The BMT is all about ridge lines and summits. If you are wondering where the trail is headed just look for the nearest high spot, that’s it. I continued on the switchbacks and hit the top of Wallalah at mile 6 enjoying the views.  Off the back of Wallalah there was a bunch of snow and I took the video below.  

If you click the link you can control the playback resolution.

https://youtu.be/sm-IWCoYKcA

It’s interesting how some areas hold cold air even though they get full sun.  The back side had about two inches of snow and was significantly colder.  It felt like a winter playground.  

Continuing on I passed Licklog Mtn and got to the junction with the Daniel Ridge Trail.  I knew from the BMT guide that there was a nice overlook just up the DRT a short distance near the summit of Rhodes Mtn.

The overlook was off trail about 50’ or so with a rock base covered in green flaky Lichen.  



Views of Licklog and Wallalah Mtn (I think).



I dig these gnarled up trees.  It seems like they grow this way on mountain tops or areas with exposure.  I recall similar trees at the summit of Springer Mtn.

Leaving the overlook, I descended back to the BMT drinking the last of my water with about a mile or so to reach my resupply at Skeenah Gap.  I met up with a few GDR runners headed the same way.  I spooked one leaving the overlook and then got passed by another one on the way down.  They were impressively quick on their feet and out of sight in an instant.  Hi and goodbye.

Skeenah Gap is mile 10 and where my friends Les, Brenda, Dan and their dog Bandit had parked.  They were doing the second half of the route and had left water for me.  I took a short break feeling a bit tired and hungry.  I was consuming about 200cals/hr and felt hungry all morning.  I started eating the jerky and had a big gel with caffeine.  My friends were hiking and had about a 4 mile lead.  I wanted to catch up to them before the Brawley Mtn Fire Tower and decided to pick up the pace.

My next resupply was at Wilscot Gap at mile 15.  I put my camera down and worked to make time.  I passed through Payne Gap, crossed over Wilscot Mtn and descended into Wilscot Gap to refill my water.  Crossing Hwy 60 I ascended an old roadbed towards Tipton Mtn.  This section was steep, long and shaded from the sun.  The temps dropped and the work was hard.  I was thankful when the road turned into switchbacks and the grade diminished.  

The route summits Tifton Mtn and the follows a descending path curving around the north west side giving views of lake Blue Ridge.

Views of lake Blue Ridge from Tifton Mtn.

Lake Blue Ridge is larger than I expected.  At about this point I had exchanged a few messages with my friends and I knew they were close to the tower or already there about a mile or so ahead of me.  As I made my way around the south side of Tifton Mtn I could see the tower.

Brawley Mtn Fire Tower.  The group was waiting for me here.  I was hoping the tower would be a cool place to hang out.  I envisioned an open air deck with spectacular 360 views.  I’ve been to other towers that are destinations in themselves.  For example the tower at the top of Rabun Mtn.  That is a outstanding spot to hang out.  This tower wasn't that kind of tower or experience.  It was dilapidated and off limits (to most of us ;).

We hung out for a little bit, snapped a few pics and took off.  I was disappointed it wasn’t the cool experience I had hoped for.

The trail off the back of Brawley Mtn goes through a section of forest with huge high canopy trees widely spaced on a bare floor. It’s a wide open area bordered on the north side by a tall rock face along the base of Brawley Mtn.  It’s spectacular.  I’d like to see this area in the spring.

The route trends down towards the Toccoa River with a few steep grunts, because it’s the BMT!  I’m pretty much toast by the time I reach the intersection with Shallowford road and don’t see the trail on the other side.  I’m a bit ahead of the group and continue on down the road until I get that uneasy feeling.  A quick map check confirms it and I turn around getting an extra bonus mile or so.  I meet up with the group and we all finish the trail together.

A good spot on the Toccoa River for a cabin fixer upper.

At the finish with the Brenda, Les, Dan and Bandit.



We enjoyed a few beers sitting in the sun by the river before calling it a day and heading home. It was an epic day with perfect conditions.  The BMT rocks. I look forward to the next sections.

My mileage ended being about 24 miles with 7k of gain in 8hrs.  Here is Strava info:

https://strava.app.link/rkwqooTkl4

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BMT Start to Swinging Bridge (ish)

Spent the day with my buddy Michael Hopton hiking from the start of the BMT to the Swinging Bridge spanning the Toccoa River.  Well, almost from the start...  

The Plan

The plan was pretty simple.  Two guys, two vehicles, a dog and a 16-17 mile point to point route from the start of the BMT to the Swinging Bridge.  Michael would leave his vehicle at the Bridge and I’d leave my truck at Springer.  

It was a nice plan that didn’t go as expected.  

Shocking as always 🤔.  

A storm had come through the area the night before that downed trees, power lines and seemingly cutting off all access to our destinations.  Just getting close was a challenge due to dense fog and debris scattered on the roads.  Our main route and second alternate ended up being completely blocked by large downed trees. 

The tree above was blocking our alternate route attempt to access the bridge via forest roads.  This was up FS 58 about 100 yards from the top near winding stair.  We backtracked and found another access via the roads.

We then ended up getting blocked from accessing Springer.  

The tree above was about a mile or so up the forest road to the Springer parking lot.  So we changed our plans and decided to start from Three forks.  

Next trip I’m gonna bring the chain saw.

The Route

We ended up parking my truck on FS 58 at three forks where the AT and the BMT (green trail near bottom) cross.  We did the loop below 58 clockwise, starting on the BMT and returning on the AT, just to get some additional miles in for our shortened adventure.  It was a good choice.  We got to see that part of the BMT and enjoy the steep up hill climb!

Although it rarely felt like it: “The route trends mostly down hill” 😆 

Once back to 58 we dropped some unneeded gear at the truck.  It was very warm and I unloaded all of my cold weather gear.  I wished I had brought an even lighter shirt.  I was already sweating pretty good.  70 degrees in January.  Who knew 🤷🏻‍♂️.

Leaving the truck we headed up the trail to Long Creek Falls.

I watered up at the falls and then we continued on a steep uphill section to an unnamed bald.  Ruby got to play and we enjoyed the impressive scenery. 

Leaving the bald we descended (because it trends down 😉) to No Name Gap.

From No Name Gap we climbed up steeply towards Wildcat ridge and onto the shoulder of Big John Dick Mountain.  The shoulder is an awesome tight bench cut trail.  This is one of the most runnable sections and an absolute blast. It switchbacks down into Bryson Gap where I planned to get more water.

Water at Bryson Gap can be found on either side of the Gap.  I chose poorly and headed down the side with an itty bitty trickling spring.  It was tough getting water and I clogged my filter.  The funny part is that we (me) took a wrong turn after this and ended up heading down the other side of the gap where our feet had to get wet crossing a significant stream.  I’ll know better next time.

The pic above shows the way down to the good water access.  I thought it was our route and we descended down about a half mile before figuring it out.  Oh well bonus miles it is.

I remember reading about this turn in the trail guide: the trail heads a short distance down the NW side of the gap on an old lumber road, then shortly bears away from the road up the right bank. Be careful not to miss this turn or you may hike a long distance in the wrong direction until you discover the folly of your ways.

The “Folly” is certainly in my ways.  😆 

Leaving Bryson Gap, on the correct trail, we followed a runnable ridge with views of the surrounding valley and bordering ridges.  You could tell we were approaching the Toccoa River.

The drop down into the Toccoa was steep and we took our time to enjoy the crossing.  The river was high and raging through its banks.  Trees and debris gathered in random areas staged for the next storm to wash them further down the river.

Crossing the bridge I was thankful for the day, the company, the warm sunshine and the cold beer just a short hike away.

Thanks to Michael and his dog Ruby for joining me on this little adventure.  It is always more meaningful to have company to share experiences with.  And thanks to Michael for all the photos!

Good times.