BMT Swinging Bridge to Shallowford Bridge

Feb 22 2020

Epic day for 24ish miles on the BMT from Swinging Bridge to Shallowford Bridge.  

I think this is Tipton mountain, or the bump just before it, as you travel from Morganton to Wilscot Gap on hwy 60.  I wasn’t expecting there to be any snow and wondered what the starting temp was going to be.

The answer is 20.  20 degrees with zero wind and a clear sky isn’t that bad.  I had prepared for frigid temps with two layers on top, running pants, warm gloves, a balaclava, and a beanie.  A puffy was a game time decision and I’m glad I left it in the truck. In less than a mile on trail it felt like a day at the beach (a cold day).  I dropped the top layer, gloves, balaclava, beanie and was still breaking a sweat. The pants came off soon after that.  For the rest of the day I had a single layer, buff and light gloves and a backpack full of clothes I didn’t need.  That combination worked perfectly.

The first climb of the route on Toonowee Mtn had a light dusting of snow on the shaded side of the ridge.

I crossed hwy 60 at mile 4 and refilled my water from the small cache I placed earlier.  I made my way towards Wallalah Mtn passing several runners that were out training for the Georgia Death Race (GDR).  The trail switched back and forth gaining ground on the summit and allowing a nice look back at Toonowee Mtn.

The BMT is all about ridge lines and summits. If you are wondering where the trail is headed just look for the nearest high spot, that’s it. I continued on the switchbacks and hit the top of Wallalah at mile 6 enjoying the views.  Off the back of Wallalah there was a bunch of snow and I took the video below.  

If you click the link you can control the playback resolution.

https://youtu.be/sm-IWCoYKcA

It’s interesting how some areas hold cold air even though they get full sun.  The back side had about two inches of snow and was significantly colder.  It felt like a winter playground.  

Continuing on I passed Licklog Mtn and got to the junction with the Daniel Ridge Trail.  I knew from the BMT guide that there was a nice overlook just up the DRT a short distance near the summit of Rhodes Mtn.

The overlook was off trail about 50’ or so with a rock base covered in green flaky Lichen.  



Views of Licklog and Wallalah Mtn (I think).



I dig these gnarled up trees.  It seems like they grow this way on mountain tops or areas with exposure.  I recall similar trees at the summit of Springer Mtn.

Leaving the overlook, I descended back to the BMT drinking the last of my water with about a mile or so to reach my resupply at Skeenah Gap.  I met up with a few GDR runners headed the same way.  I spooked one leaving the overlook and then got passed by another one on the way down.  They were impressively quick on their feet and out of sight in an instant.  Hi and goodbye.

Skeenah Gap is mile 10 and where my friends Les, Brenda, Dan and their dog Bandit had parked.  They were doing the second half of the route and had left water for me.  I took a short break feeling a bit tired and hungry.  I was consuming about 200cals/hr and felt hungry all morning.  I started eating the jerky and had a big gel with caffeine.  My friends were hiking and had about a 4 mile lead.  I wanted to catch up to them before the Brawley Mtn Fire Tower and decided to pick up the pace.

My next resupply was at Wilscot Gap at mile 15.  I put my camera down and worked to make time.  I passed through Payne Gap, crossed over Wilscot Mtn and descended into Wilscot Gap to refill my water.  Crossing Hwy 60 I ascended an old roadbed towards Tipton Mtn.  This section was steep, long and shaded from the sun.  The temps dropped and the work was hard.  I was thankful when the road turned into switchbacks and the grade diminished.  

The route summits Tifton Mtn and the follows a descending path curving around the north west side giving views of lake Blue Ridge.

Views of lake Blue Ridge from Tifton Mtn.

Lake Blue Ridge is larger than I expected.  At about this point I had exchanged a few messages with my friends and I knew they were close to the tower or already there about a mile or so ahead of me.  As I made my way around the south side of Tifton Mtn I could see the tower.

Brawley Mtn Fire Tower.  The group was waiting for me here.  I was hoping the tower would be a cool place to hang out.  I envisioned an open air deck with spectacular 360 views.  I’ve been to other towers that are destinations in themselves.  For example the tower at the top of Rabun Mtn.  That is a outstanding spot to hang out.  This tower wasn't that kind of tower or experience.  It was dilapidated and off limits (to most of us ;).

We hung out for a little bit, snapped a few pics and took off.  I was disappointed it wasn’t the cool experience I had hoped for.

The trail off the back of Brawley Mtn goes through a section of forest with huge high canopy trees widely spaced on a bare floor. It’s a wide open area bordered on the north side by a tall rock face along the base of Brawley Mtn.  It’s spectacular.  I’d like to see this area in the spring.

The route trends down towards the Toccoa River with a few steep grunts, because it’s the BMT!  I’m pretty much toast by the time I reach the intersection with Shallowford road and don’t see the trail on the other side.  I’m a bit ahead of the group and continue on down the road until I get that uneasy feeling.  A quick map check confirms it and I turn around getting an extra bonus mile or so.  I meet up with the group and we all finish the trail together.

A good spot on the Toccoa River for a cabin fixer upper.

At the finish with the Brenda, Les, Dan and Bandit.



We enjoyed a few beers sitting in the sun by the river before calling it a day and heading home. It was an epic day with perfect conditions.  The BMT rocks. I look forward to the next sections.

My mileage ended being about 24 miles with 7k of gain in 8hrs.  Here is Strava info:

https://strava.app.link/rkwqooTkl4

.