2021 Cruel Jewel 50 Miler Race Recap

 

Dragon Spine on the Duncan Ridge Trail (DRT)

The TL;DR:

I was able to finish a long, tough race in the Georgia mountains with great support from friends and family. Thanks to everyone. I’ve never appreciated comfort as much as I have after being uncomfortable. Just finish. That is all that matters.

The long form:

Perfect day, perfect conditions. What a great day to spend in the woods with friends and family.

We came up to Blue Ridge the night before and we were able to spend some time with the Hopton’s. We had trained together on the course and it was nice to hang out and meet everyone's family. Truly a great time. We then made our way to Blairsville for the evening with plans to see the Hopton’s again in the morning after I picked up my packet. Well that didn’t go as planned. I forgot that I had signed up for the shuttle from Vogel and my packet wasn’t at the start when I arrived. It came over on the shuttle and was no big deal. But until I had the bib in hand, I was a bit uneasy.  After I got my packet, the start area filled up with all the racers and crews. I met up with the Hopton’s and with Robert and Darrell. The air was cool and fresh with little to no breeze. This is perfect.

The Hopton's

Darrell and Robert

Start: Mile 0.0

The race was broken up into a few waves. Mine was the second. We reached our start time and eased out walking. Some runners actually ran. I walked it out and followed a pattern of walking on the inclines and slow running on the flats and down hills. It wasn’t long before we hit the first real hill as we made our way up Aska Road. I felt great. Easy does it. This is awesome.

Darrell and Robert's start wave

Deep Gap: Mile 2.7

After a few miles, we dropped into Deep Gap and the first aid station. I picked up a lil water and passed through onto the Flat Creek Loop. Still taking it easy. Walking the ups and slow running the downs. All systems in check. We return to Flat Creek aid station where I fill up on some water and grab some tasty Fig Newtons. I remember how good they tasted. Yummy!

Deep Gap: Mile 8.5

I left the aid station with the Hopton’s and we made our way up Stanley Gap. They outpaced me and I continued up slowly. All systems in check. I passed a few 100 milers along the way. They looked rough. Glassy eyed and pale faced. Some of them I would see again the next day. Cresting out on Stanley, we take a right on the BMT down to Weaver Creek Road. This is a beautiful trail. There is a hill side that is completely covered in ferns. The bench cut trail follows the contour of the hill and there are huge lush green ferns as far as you can see in every direction. Love this spot. This trail is crazy steep and drops you down to the next aid station at Weaver Creek Road. I meet up with the Hopton’s at the aid station as they are preparing to head out. I have a grilled cheese sandwich hot off the skillet. Oh man, it tastes amazing. I also have some watermelon. Oh man, all this stuff tastes so good. This is awesome.

Weaver Creek: Mile 13.5

I turn and leave the aid station. It is straight up for a long way. I take my time and do my best to take it easy.  I ran into Darrell and Robert on the way back up the BMT.  At the top, the BMT and Stanley intersect and we go right to the high point of the trail near Rocky Mtn. After that there is a long descent into the Stanley Gap parking area and the next aid station. I meet up with the Hopton’s again as they are preparing to leave. I grab another grilled cheese, watermelon and some fig Newtons. Man this all tastes so good. All systems in check.

Darrell and Robert on BMT

Stanley: Mile 18.9

Leaving the Stanley Gap aid station, we take a gravel road, then a paved road down to the Toccoa River where we cross the old steel truss Shallowford Bridge. We make our way on the other side of the river for a short bit and then head back into the woods. We have a few miles to get to the Old Dial Road aid station where I’ll see my crew for the first time since the start. Our crews were amazing and took such good care of us. They had a chair for me and got me everything I needed when I was there. Truly an emotional boost to see them and have their support. The Hopton’s are still at the aid station when I arrive and we hang out for a few minutes before they continue on. I have some ramen with broth and some more watermelon. It tastes really good but I’m starting to get an uneasy feeling in my stomach.

Hopton's arriving at Old Dial Aid Station

Arriving at Old Dial Aid Station

Old Dial: Mile 24.8

I leave the aid station headed for Wilscot Gap in 5ish miles. I’ll see my crew again there. Some steep climbing in this section. I’m doing pretty good. I’m still drinking and eating but there is discomfort in my stomach. I pass the Brawley Mountain fire tower and then the overlook for Lake Blue Ridge and descend into Wilscot Gap. I meet up with my crew and see the Hopton’s before they head out. I have a Coke and that helps my stomach feel better. I eat a little bit but not much. Things aren’t tasting good any more.

Hopton's at Wilscot Gap Aid Station

Arriving at Wilscot Aid Station

DAS NOT GOOD!

Trouble brewing

Wilscot Gap: Mile 30.3

I leave the aid station and head out for the next 5 miles to Skeenah Gap. This section doesn’t seem to have as many steep inclines. I make my way and try not to push too hard. I’m pretty much done wanting to eat. Just isn’t good any more. I’m still keeping within my time range though. My thoughts are anything under 20min/mile is money in the bank. I’ll reach Skeenah with about 40-50 mins in the bank. My stomach has gone sideways and I’ve purged demons a few times before I descend into the aid station. I meet up with my crew and see the Hopton’s. We get dressed up for the night and take a picture of the three of us. I’m sitting in the chair and about to toss my cookies. I think right after that photo I’m giving it up as they are headed out. I drink some coke and Mountain Dew. About the only things that taste good. I remember one moment Cristy and I shared a look. She knew I wasn’t well and did what she had to do to get me going. In my head I was having a moment. Save me! Oh well nothing to do but press on.

Arriving at Skeenah Gap Aid Station

I am really not well

Skeenah Gap: Mile 35.2

I picked up some chicken broth leaving the aid station and sipped it on my way up Rhodes Mtn. One of the toughest of many tough climbs. I’d stop and drink. Hike a bit. Stop and drink. I made it about half way up before I lost it all. For the rest of the race, I’m happy to get sick because I’ll feel good for a short period of time. From this point on, I didn’t consume anything that stayed down. For the next 15 hours, I’ll be in a deficit on food and water. Oh well, nothing to do but keep moving. I make it to the top of Rhodes and I’m extremely elated. That is a tough climb with a long steep descent after it. We are now on the Duncan Ridge Trail that is referred to as the Dragon Spine. It gets this name from sticking out like vertebrae on the spine of a sleeping dragon. It’s completely dark now and I’ve got my head lamp on.  From here to Coosa Bald, you can often see the lights of Blairsville off to your left.  My pace has slowed considerably. I’m hitting 40-50 min miles on ascents and maybe in the 25s on the descents. From this point on, I listen to the owls throughout the night hooting and hollering. It’s an amazing experience. I keep moving on to the Fish Gap aid station. I meet up with the Hopton’s again (I think, not certain) as they are leaving. This will be the last time I see them (or think I see them). They will outpace me for the rest of the race and finish strong a few hours ahead of me. I have some coke at the aid station. It’s the only thing that feels good. I take 10 mins or so sitting in a chair near the fire. It feels great. I close my eyes for a bit and then it’s time to keep moving. I see several runners doing this. One lady I leap frogged a few times stayed longer than me, and I remember her flying past me near the finish. Whatever her approach was it certainly worked.

Fish Gap: Mile 40.1

I leave Fish Gap with 7ish miles to get to the next aid station named Fire Pit. This is by far the hardest section for me. There are several steep climbs and my brain isn’t working well. I’m having negative thoughts. Why am I doing this? Whose idea was this? Why am I signed up for TNGA next? I was having a pity party. It didn’t last long. I got over it and refocused myself. There is only one thing. Finish. That is all that matters. I never had another negative thought. Keep moving and finish. I’m mentally misplacing the order of landmarks now. More than once, I thought I was starting the Coosa Bald climb which was miles yet to come. I’d peak out on a hard climb and realize it wasn’t Coosa and be a bit demoralized. The Coosa Bald summit became a thing in my mind that I had to get to. It would be the turning point. If I can just reach that it will be mostly down hill and I’ll practically be done. Where the hell is it? During this section, I adopted a pattern of resting and shutting my eyes for 2-5 mins. I’d hit a climb, get exhausted and then sit or lay down. I’d look at my watch and after some preset time in my head, I’d get up to resume the climb. I’d often get sick, but whatever feels good can’t be bad. I’d lay on the ground in the darkness and every now and then I’d see headlamps approaching. This helped get me back up on my feet. Before reaching the Fire Pit aid station I was absolutely convinced I had missed it. By my math, I was sure that I must have passed it miles ago. I laid down on the side of the trail and was wondering if I’d be disqualified. How did I miss it? Did I just zone out and walk right past it? I mentioned this to a runner as he was passing me. He told me that I hadn’t missed it and in fact, it was just about 100 feet further up the climb. Oh man, that really boosted my spirits. I was really wanting some coke with ice. That was so strong in my head. Coke with ice would save me. I got up and made my way to the aid station. I got some coke with ice and it was everything I needed. More please. I probably had 3 cups of it. Just made me feel better. I sat down near the fire and then noticed all the bodies laying on the ground around me. Some covered, some not. Just laying there. It looked like a great idea so I tried it for a little bit but it was too cold. I sat down again and closed my eyes for 10 minutes. Then it was time to go. Just finish!

Fire Pit: Mile 47.4

I left the aid station with one thing on my mind, Coosa Bald. As I approached the climb, I tried to take it slow enough that I could just keep moving. Before I knew it, I was on the summit. Whoot!! Getting over that was a huge boost. There is a long steep descent after this headed to the last aid station at Wolf Creek. It would be during this section that I would see the sun come up and feel the morning arrive. The birds were singing and the forest came alive. It was magical. The temperature was perfect. I was back in just a tee shirt and happy to be in the woods. I’m going to finish.

Wolf Creek: Mile 52.1

I never doubted finishing and my mind was now fixated on it. Get to the finish. After the last aid station, there is a tough climb for about 3 miles that never seems to end. It’s the last kick in the butt before you have a mile or so down hill to the finish. It follows the side of the mountain on an incline back and forth. It keeps you wondering if it will ever end. It does. I finally finish the climb and cross the road into Vogel. Now I had just a bit further to go - all down hill. It was in the bag. I got emotional often as I made my way through the park onto the last stretch. I always do. All I have to do is think of Cristy and Spencer being there at the finish and I tear up. I send them a message that I’m close and that I’d love a Coke with ice!! Yeah I’m thinking about that also. Man wouldn’t that be awesome. I hit a spot where I can see Spencer and I tear up a bit. I meet up with him and we finish together. I tell him how important it is to finish what you start and to never give up. I can see the finish and Cristy and get emotional. There are several people there and I focus on just getting to the line and it is over. I thank the organizers at the finish. I pick up my fancy belt and grab a coke with my awesome crew.

Be the ball Danny

Chair please

Oh DAS GOOD!

Vogel: Mile 55.8

It’s so nice to have family and friends to do this stuff with. Thank you Cristy and Spencer for being there and supporting me. Could not have done this without you. I appreciate all of your efforts over the past two days. Thank you!

Thanks to the Hopton’s for their friendship and hospitality. It was heart warming to know Cristy and Spencer would not be alone. Thank you!

I think being uncomfortable makes you appreciate comfort. Sleeping in a bed is amazing.  Pillows are amazing.

I drank coke and ice for the rest of the day till we got home and I passed out. I got up about 9 pm to eat and had another coke and ice. Then went back to bed. Coke and ice for the win!

Thanks Babe!

BMT Swinging Bridge to Shallowford Bridge

Feb 22 2020

Epic day for 24ish miles on the BMT from Swinging Bridge to Shallowford Bridge.  

I think this is Tipton mountain, or the bump just before it, as you travel from Morganton to Wilscot Gap on hwy 60.  I wasn’t expecting there to be any snow and wondered what the starting temp was going to be.

The answer is 20.  20 degrees with zero wind and a clear sky isn’t that bad.  I had prepared for frigid temps with two layers on top, running pants, warm gloves, a balaclava, and a beanie.  A puffy was a game time decision and I’m glad I left it in the truck. In less than a mile on trail it felt like a day at the beach (a cold day).  I dropped the top layer, gloves, balaclava, beanie and was still breaking a sweat. The pants came off soon after that.  For the rest of the day I had a single layer, buff and light gloves and a backpack full of clothes I didn’t need.  That combination worked perfectly.

The first climb of the route on Toonowee Mtn had a light dusting of snow on the shaded side of the ridge.

I crossed hwy 60 at mile 4 and refilled my water from the small cache I placed earlier.  I made my way towards Wallalah Mtn passing several runners that were out training for the Georgia Death Race (GDR).  The trail switched back and forth gaining ground on the summit and allowing a nice look back at Toonowee Mtn.

The BMT is all about ridge lines and summits. If you are wondering where the trail is headed just look for the nearest high spot, that’s it. I continued on the switchbacks and hit the top of Wallalah at mile 6 enjoying the views.  Off the back of Wallalah there was a bunch of snow and I took the video below.  

If you click the link you can control the playback resolution.

https://youtu.be/sm-IWCoYKcA

It’s interesting how some areas hold cold air even though they get full sun.  The back side had about two inches of snow and was significantly colder.  It felt like a winter playground.  

Continuing on I passed Licklog Mtn and got to the junction with the Daniel Ridge Trail.  I knew from the BMT guide that there was a nice overlook just up the DRT a short distance near the summit of Rhodes Mtn.

The overlook was off trail about 50’ or so with a rock base covered in green flaky Lichen.  



Views of Licklog and Wallalah Mtn (I think).



I dig these gnarled up trees.  It seems like they grow this way on mountain tops or areas with exposure.  I recall similar trees at the summit of Springer Mtn.

Leaving the overlook, I descended back to the BMT drinking the last of my water with about a mile or so to reach my resupply at Skeenah Gap.  I met up with a few GDR runners headed the same way.  I spooked one leaving the overlook and then got passed by another one on the way down.  They were impressively quick on their feet and out of sight in an instant.  Hi and goodbye.

Skeenah Gap is mile 10 and where my friends Les, Brenda, Dan and their dog Bandit had parked.  They were doing the second half of the route and had left water for me.  I took a short break feeling a bit tired and hungry.  I was consuming about 200cals/hr and felt hungry all morning.  I started eating the jerky and had a big gel with caffeine.  My friends were hiking and had about a 4 mile lead.  I wanted to catch up to them before the Brawley Mtn Fire Tower and decided to pick up the pace.

My next resupply was at Wilscot Gap at mile 15.  I put my camera down and worked to make time.  I passed through Payne Gap, crossed over Wilscot Mtn and descended into Wilscot Gap to refill my water.  Crossing Hwy 60 I ascended an old roadbed towards Tipton Mtn.  This section was steep, long and shaded from the sun.  The temps dropped and the work was hard.  I was thankful when the road turned into switchbacks and the grade diminished.  

The route summits Tifton Mtn and the follows a descending path curving around the north west side giving views of lake Blue Ridge.

Views of lake Blue Ridge from Tifton Mtn.

Lake Blue Ridge is larger than I expected.  At about this point I had exchanged a few messages with my friends and I knew they were close to the tower or already there about a mile or so ahead of me.  As I made my way around the south side of Tifton Mtn I could see the tower.

Brawley Mtn Fire Tower.  The group was waiting for me here.  I was hoping the tower would be a cool place to hang out.  I envisioned an open air deck with spectacular 360 views.  I’ve been to other towers that are destinations in themselves.  For example the tower at the top of Rabun Mtn.  That is a outstanding spot to hang out.  This tower wasn't that kind of tower or experience.  It was dilapidated and off limits (to most of us ;).

We hung out for a little bit, snapped a few pics and took off.  I was disappointed it wasn’t the cool experience I had hoped for.

The trail off the back of Brawley Mtn goes through a section of forest with huge high canopy trees widely spaced on a bare floor. It’s a wide open area bordered on the north side by a tall rock face along the base of Brawley Mtn.  It’s spectacular.  I’d like to see this area in the spring.

The route trends down towards the Toccoa River with a few steep grunts, because it’s the BMT!  I’m pretty much toast by the time I reach the intersection with Shallowford road and don’t see the trail on the other side.  I’m a bit ahead of the group and continue on down the road until I get that uneasy feeling.  A quick map check confirms it and I turn around getting an extra bonus mile or so.  I meet up with the group and we all finish the trail together.

A good spot on the Toccoa River for a cabin fixer upper.

At the finish with the Brenda, Les, Dan and Bandit.



We enjoyed a few beers sitting in the sun by the river before calling it a day and heading home. It was an epic day with perfect conditions.  The BMT rocks. I look forward to the next sections.

My mileage ended being about 24 miles with 7k of gain in 8hrs.  Here is Strava info:

https://strava.app.link/rkwqooTkl4

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BMT Start to Swinging Bridge (ish)

Spent the day with my buddy Michael Hopton hiking from the start of the BMT to the Swinging Bridge spanning the Toccoa River.  Well, almost from the start...  

The Plan

The plan was pretty simple.  Two guys, two vehicles, a dog and a 16-17 mile point to point route from the start of the BMT to the Swinging Bridge.  Michael would leave his vehicle at the Bridge and I’d leave my truck at Springer.  

It was a nice plan that didn’t go as expected.  

Shocking as always 🤔.  

A storm had come through the area the night before that downed trees, power lines and seemingly cutting off all access to our destinations.  Just getting close was a challenge due to dense fog and debris scattered on the roads.  Our main route and second alternate ended up being completely blocked by large downed trees. 

The tree above was blocking our alternate route attempt to access the bridge via forest roads.  This was up FS 58 about 100 yards from the top near winding stair.  We backtracked and found another access via the roads.

We then ended up getting blocked from accessing Springer.  

The tree above was about a mile or so up the forest road to the Springer parking lot.  So we changed our plans and decided to start from Three forks.  

Next trip I’m gonna bring the chain saw.

The Route

We ended up parking my truck on FS 58 at three forks where the AT and the BMT (green trail near bottom) cross.  We did the loop below 58 clockwise, starting on the BMT and returning on the AT, just to get some additional miles in for our shortened adventure.  It was a good choice.  We got to see that part of the BMT and enjoy the steep up hill climb!

Although it rarely felt like it: “The route trends mostly down hill” 😆 

Once back to 58 we dropped some unneeded gear at the truck.  It was very warm and I unloaded all of my cold weather gear.  I wished I had brought an even lighter shirt.  I was already sweating pretty good.  70 degrees in January.  Who knew 🤷🏻‍♂️.

Leaving the truck we headed up the trail to Long Creek Falls.

I watered up at the falls and then we continued on a steep uphill section to an unnamed bald.  Ruby got to play and we enjoyed the impressive scenery. 

Leaving the bald we descended (because it trends down 😉) to No Name Gap.

From No Name Gap we climbed up steeply towards Wildcat ridge and onto the shoulder of Big John Dick Mountain.  The shoulder is an awesome tight bench cut trail.  This is one of the most runnable sections and an absolute blast. It switchbacks down into Bryson Gap where I planned to get more water.

Water at Bryson Gap can be found on either side of the Gap.  I chose poorly and headed down the side with an itty bitty trickling spring.  It was tough getting water and I clogged my filter.  The funny part is that we (me) took a wrong turn after this and ended up heading down the other side of the gap where our feet had to get wet crossing a significant stream.  I’ll know better next time.

The pic above shows the way down to the good water access.  I thought it was our route and we descended down about a half mile before figuring it out.  Oh well bonus miles it is.

I remember reading about this turn in the trail guide: the trail heads a short distance down the NW side of the gap on an old lumber road, then shortly bears away from the road up the right bank. Be careful not to miss this turn or you may hike a long distance in the wrong direction until you discover the folly of your ways.

The “Folly” is certainly in my ways.  😆 

Leaving Bryson Gap, on the correct trail, we followed a runnable ridge with views of the surrounding valley and bordering ridges.  You could tell we were approaching the Toccoa River.

The drop down into the Toccoa was steep and we took our time to enjoy the crossing.  The river was high and raging through its banks.  Trees and debris gathered in random areas staged for the next storm to wash them further down the river.

Crossing the bridge I was thankful for the day, the company, the warm sunshine and the cold beer just a short hike away.

Thanks to Michael and his dog Ruby for joining me on this little adventure.  It is always more meaningful to have company to share experiences with.  And thanks to Michael for all the photos!

Good times.